Cucumber Chef Thu, 02 Dec 2021 23:11:26 +0000 en-US hourly 1 Cucumber Chef 32 32 Le Bouchon owners plan modern French restaurant to replace Michelin-starred Entente in River North Thu, 02 Dec 2021 23:11:26 +0000

It’s not a surprising announcement, but Entente, the Michelin-starred restaurant run by chef Brian Fisher, will not be reopening in River North. The restaurant has remained closed for much of the start of the pandemic – except for a sporadic delivery service – since March 2020, but owner Ty Fujimura (Arami) was reluctant to formalize the closure.

Instead of a formal announcement, the disappearance of the Entente is final as the space will soon welcome new tenants: Oliver and Nicolas Poilevey, whose parents founded Chicago’s iconic French restaurants La Sardine and Le Bouchon. With their new business, Obelix, the brothers are trying to forge their own path.

Under the leadership of the Poilevey brothers, Le Bouchon continues to please its loyal Bucktown clientele. To the buzz of Le Bouchon, Oliver Poilevey left to open the famous Taqueria Chingón in December 2020 with the help of chefs Sotero Gallego and Marcos Ascencio. With Obelix, Poilevey says he wasn’t looking to open another restaurant, but the Entente owner called him with a deal too good to pass up.

And with this offer, he and his brother came up with the idea for Obelix, a modern French restaurant that will retain some of the dishes served at Bouchon and La Sardine, dishes like French Onion Soup and Stuffed Beef Wellington. with foie gras. But the map now focuses on the next generation of Poilevey. The target opening is early 2022, but this will be affected by hiring. Poilevey says they are looking for potential employees to contact.

“I grew up in Chicago, I opened a Mexican restaurant, so there’s some influence with that,” says Poilevey. “I love Southeast Asian cuisine, so there will be influences. I wouldn’t call it French fusion, just French cuisine through the lens of someone who grew up here.

Poilevey compares what he tries with his menu to music with artists drawing inspiration from musicians of different genres. He mentions how North African cuisine influences the Parisian food scene and compares it to how Mexican culture has influenced American cuisine. This is how Obélix differs from the cuisine of his parents, the late Jean-Claude and Susanne Poilevey.

“We’re always going to have the classics,” says Oliver Poilvey. “But I’m going to bring a more personalized touch to French cuisine. “

The menu will include a section dedicated to duck and foie gras will also be in the spotlight. Poilevey says he’s excited to unveil dishes that mix the sweet and the savory, and there will be fancy seafood tricks. Nicolas Poilevy, curator of Le Bouchon wines, will do the same at Obélix and will take care of the front of the house. The brothers say the wine list will be 98% French with lots of whites and burgundies. They will offer you some Californian servants from small family vineyards.

Oliver Poilevey is enthusiastic about the modern and spacious kitchen he uses. There has never been a room dedicated to dry aging meat and there are four cold rooms. There’s even room to do some prep work for Taqueria Chingón. Being a French brasserie, the space will look part of the game with new burgundy benches. Erin Boone of Boone Interiors takes care of the design. She worked on Elske in West Loop and Chef’s Special Cocktail Bar in Bucktown. But major work was not needed as the Entente, in its second incarnation (the original was at Lakeview), was only open inside the newly constructed space for about a year before the State will not close indoor restaurants in March 2020 due to the novel coronavirus.

Even though the Deal remained closed, the restaurant retained its Michelin star in April when inspectors announced the 2021 ratings. Inspectors said they did not want to penalize restaurants that faced adversity during the period. pandemic. Still, Michelin managed to pull star status away from Kikko, the West Loop restaurant located under the famous Kumiko cocktail bar. Michelin representatives say it was due to a change of chef. Entente owner Fujimura says he wishes Poilevey the best of luck in space, but has made no further comment now that the shutdown is official.

The restaurant is in a sleepy part of River North, away from the tourist traps of Hubbard Street. It’s different from West Loop (where The Sardine has been for 21 years) and Bucktown. Poilevey is determined to break through this part of town. He doesn’t want to limit what he can accomplish, but the goal is not a Michelin star. Offering regulars a spot where they can enjoy a glass of wine and a meal for around $ 50 is, but if the big spenders feel they have a reason to celebrate, Poilevey says the new restaurant will live up to it.

Poilevey says he and his younger brother struggled to come up with a name for the restaurant. An idea germinated when Poilevey mentioned Obelix, a beefy fictional character from the French comic book series Asterix. Obelix, with his insatiable appetite, was the ideal client for Poilevey.

Now that they have a name for the restaurant, maybe it’s time to work on a name for a group of restaurants. Obélix marks the third restaurant of the family: “I don’t know, are we a group? he says. “Maybe? I guess we are.

Obelix, 700 N. Sedgwick Street, scheduled to open from early to mid-January.

Ilkley La Casita restaurant will support three charities this Christmas Thu, 02 Dec 2021 12:11:06 +0000 LA Casita, a tapas restaurant in Ilkley, pledged to help three local charities in December.

The restaurant has asked its social media followers to choose a charity to support, the shortlist being between Yorkshire Air Ambulance, Martin House Children’s Hospice and Feed Leeds Homeless project.

Following a high number of equally divided votes for the three charities, the restaurant decided to support them all. “We couldn’t pick one after all the votes we got,” said co-founder Oliver Renton. “So, we thought, let’s support all three! ”

La Casita has chosen three dishes from their Christmas menu as charity dishes and all proceeds from these dishes will go to the charity they represent. This will take place over a three week period in December and each week the restaurant will support one of the charities.

The first week, La Casita supports the Martin House children’s hospice through its dish of chorizo ​​with hot cider with spices. Week two is supporting Yorkshire Air Ambulance through their new roasted parsnip and chestnut granola dish and week three is cod loin with beef cheeks to benefit the Feed Leeds Homeless project.

Vickie Bowden, head of fundraising at Yorkshire Air Ambulance, said: charity dish. It costs £ 12,000 a day to maintain and fly the two Yorkshire Air Ambulances. Local communities and businesses such as La Casita Tapas are the cornerstone of our association.

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Dr Tony Frank launches lecture series Wed, 01 Dec 2021 23:29:15 +0000
CSU Chancellor Dr Tony Frank answers questions from Centennial Council member Kathy Turley.


CSU Chancellor addresses South Metro Denver House

Tony Frank praised the merits of higher education at the South Metro Denver Chamber’s first lecture series at the Lone Tree Arts Center.

The general public dined over a fabulous catered meal provided by Jimmy and Lasinda Crane, owners of Cranelli’s Italian restaurant in Lone Tree.

Chancellor Tony Frank was the 14th President of Colorado State University and held that position for 11 years before becoming Chancellor of All Systems in 2019, which includes CSU, CSU Pueblo, and CSU Global in DTC.

Dr Frank holds a veterinary medicine degree from the University of Illinois and a doctorate. in Pathology from Purdue among his college degrees.

Leading the series of chamber addresses, Dr. Frank emphasized the value of obtaining a college education and the rich rewards in the life happiness and financial success of college graduates.

He stressed that investing in education is a wise decision, ranking among one of the major decisions of life which he called a “lifetime investment”.

“Tuition fees have increased,” he said, “largely due to the drop in state aid to 20 percent”. He thinks about 50 percent of students graduate through student loans.

Dr Frank said that CSU has made a major change in the management of higher education in the face of COVID-19. He leads the University in finding new partnerships such as the new CSU Spur campus at the National Western Stock Show Facility. The new buildings will provide educational opportunities for students in Kindergarten to Grade 12.

He pointed out that CSU offers many financial aid options for low-income students.

Looking Ahead Frank believes that higher education will continue to be in high demand and believes that education is entering the “age of the learner”.

To find out about future South Metro Denver Chamber speaker programs, visit w: Phone. : 303-249-8407

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Black People Eats Founder Raises Money to Make Chicago a Difference Nonprofit Wed, 01 Dec 2021 01:25:57 +0000

CHICAGO – It’s the season to give, a message Jeremy Joyce says he doesn’t take lightly.

While so many organizations are working to help others struggle over the holidays, Joyce is using her platform to help.

“I will continue to be a blessing to nonprofit organizations. It’s in the Chicago community, ”he said. “It’s important to give back. They do the daily leg work. And a lot of people don’t see it, but they leave footprints in the ground. ”

Joyce is the founder of Black People Eats, LLC, a business he says connects people with black-owned food and beverage businesses across the country and beyond.

He’s using his platform to help communities in need with his fourth annual 12 Days of Christmas fundraiser through GoFundMe.

The goal: to raise thousands of dollars and surprise an organization that is making a difference in a poor community.

Last year, Feed, Dress, Help the Needy (FCHN) received the surprise money.

“It’s been such a big, big help to us,” said Shelia Price. “With this money we were able to get a heating system and we still had money to distribute food and clothes to people. So that was all.

Joyce said being able to help your community is an amazing feeling.

“My mom and dad brought me here when I was a kid to really be a servant of the community and to really know what it means to give back,” Joyce said. “Giving back is amazing. ”

Every dollar donated will allow donors to enter a raffle to win a dinner for two at two restaurants owned by Blacks in the community. He adds that he is still compiling the list.

As for the recipients, Joyce said he couldn’t reveal which organization would receive the funding. His reason: he doesn’t want to spoil the surprise.

But Joyce says he will announce it when the fundraiser ends on December 12. But until then, he needs the audience’s help to achieve the goal.

“We’re going to have a day where we really give them a check because we paid close attention to what they were doing,” Joyce said. “Our goal is $ 3,000. So we can truly be a blessing to them.

Decadent cocoa, winter cocktails warm up this Dallas restaurant Tue, 30 Nov 2021 23:36:27 +0000

This Dallas restaurant news summary includes restaurant openings and new menus that appear so often in a restaurant news summary. But there’s a unique theme this time around: drinks, with all manner of limited edition drinks introduced for the winter season – from decadent hot chocolate to specialty cocktails. Never has a roundup of information about a restaurant been so watered as this one.

Here’s what’s happening in the restaurant news in Dallas:

The sweet bells factory is a new New Orleans style restaurant that opened at the end of October in Plano at 2109 W. Parker Rd. # 210. It’s owned by Ashley Johnson and Thaddeus Bell, who started out as a food truck before moving on to brick and mortar. Their menu includes fried seafood, fried chicken, stuffed peppers, smothered turkey necks, kidney beans and rice, ribs, lamb chops, and praline brownies – dishes they have. served to celebrities like Megan Thee Stallion and Dak Prescott.

Miruku Creamery, a soft serve ice cream store at 207 N. Kentucky St. in McKinney is now open. Husband and wife Kham and Yim Phommahaxay make soft ice cream, cotton candy, coffees and espressos. The couple take a culinary approach, including making soft-serve from scratch, with styling inspired by Cremia, a Japanese version of soft-serve that is said to be the creamiest and milky of them all.

Kim’s House Grill & BBQ is a new Korean barbecue spot in Trinity Groves, in the former K’s House location at 320 Singleton Blvd. # 100. It’s all you can eat Korean BBQ and hotpot soup, for $ 30. They also have a set menu option, $ 99 for two, with specials like rib eye and marinated short rib. They have an impressive provision to discourage waste: leftovers will be charged $ 50.

Beerhead Bar and Restaurant made its official Texas debut via a location that opened in Plano at 5805 Preston Rd. Beerhead offers over 365 different beers with 50 rotary taps, as well as a full menu of food and live music. Plano’s location is owned by entrepreneurs Anthony Patel and Ashish Patel, and it is the first Beerhead outside the Midwest.

Jalisco North is now open for lunch, Monday through Saturday, with a menu featuring dishes like the Comida Corrida Lunch Special, with a choice of tacos or enchilada, served with rice and beans, and a cup of soup or house salad; Skirt Steak Chili Relleno, a poblano pepper stuffed with Mexican cheeses; and the Jalisco burger.

Encina at Oak Cliff has a new menu of dishes for fall / winter: Braised Short Rib with Mashed Sweet Potatoes, Ricotta Cavatelli with Lamb Sausage Bolognese, Goat Guisado with Celeriac, Hominy and Jalapeño Salad, Blackened Red Fish with Parsnip Puree, Broccoli Rabe & Cornbread, and Diamond H Ranch Quail with Swiss Chard, Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes, Cauliflower & BBQ Sweet Potato, and Pumpkin & Spice Panna Cotta Latte for dessert. New seasonal cocktails include the Mezcal Outrider and the Rum and Cognac Shipwreck.

Modern market has a new winter salad featuring chicken with chili-spiced grated sweet potatoes, nut candy and Brussels sprouts on a bed of romaine lettuce.

Italian Grill from Carrabba offers a seasonal menu of specialties including Scampi prawns, a short Marsala rib with garlic mashed potatoes, Penne Martino with chicken, mushrooms and sundried tomatoes, and Chocolate Dream, a fudge brownie with chocolate mousse, whipped cream and chocolate sauce.

Social Sidecar, Addison’s innovative social lounge, features a new Tableside S’mores with marshmallows, Hershey’s milk chocolate and graham crackers served in a cast iron skillet, as well as a Boozy Hot Chocolate with alcohol of your choice and whipped cream.

Pour civil, the coffee and wine bar at Hill on Walnut Hill, offers a new menu of winter drinks, including Pumpkin Pie Latte, Caramel Apple Latte, Hazelnut Dreams (with a “whisper” of vanilla and cinnamon), Maple Leaves Cinnamon, Maple and Vanilla Latte, and Lavender Honey Latte, available hot or iced.

7 eleven has a new winter drink: Winter Wonderland Cocoa, hot chocolate mixed with a peppermint flavor. It’s available for a limited time, at the same price as their other hot drinks, and customizable with a range of toppings including marshmallows, cinnamon, caramel, a variety of creams, and chocolate sauce.

Dallas hotels signed on La Colombe coffee, now available at the Funny Library Coffee Shop, located on the lobby level of the hotel. La Colombe is a roaster known for its ethical and long-term business practices with producers and supplies coffee shops to cafes, hotels, restaurants and retailers around the world, as well as 30 coffee shops in Philadelphia, New York, Chicago, Boston, Los Angeles and Washington DC.

Bulla Gastrobar, the Spanish-style restaurant at Legacy West, offers a limited-edition cocktail: Holiday Spiced Horchata, served until December 31 for $ 12.

Bonefish Grill brought back his seasonal martini, the Winter White Cosmo, with Reyka Vodka, Cointreau, Elderberry liqueur St. Germain, white cranberry juice, lime juice and frozen cranberries.

The courtyard at McKinney offers two winter cocktails until February 28: Boozy Hot Cocoa with Absolut Vanilla Vodka; and Spiked Apple Cider with Lip Service Rye Whiskey and Fireball.

Hyatt Regency Frisco-Dallas presents the Holiday Buck, a holiday cocktail with TX Straight Bourbon, lemon juice, ginger syrup, cranberry juice, club soda and cherries for garnish, served at the lobby bar and lounge for 13 $ during the holidays.

Lakewood Brewery released new “Seduction” mixed six-packs for 2021, featuring two cans of each of the three favorite beers in their Seduction series: Double Stuffed, French Quarter and Sin Mint. This is the first time that Double Stuffed has been available outside of Lakewood Brewing Taproom; French Quarter and Sin Mint are both returning as fan favorites.

Mcdonalds holiday pies are back. They feature vanilla cream in a sugar-iced flaky butter crust and topped with rainbow sprinkles, and are available for a limited time.

Miyoko’s dairy, a pioneer of vegan cheese, won a positive decision from the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of California in a lawsuit over its use of terms such as butter and dairy on vegan products. Meat and dairy industry groups argued that this is confusing for consumers. The lawsuit sets a precedent for other brands fighting to defend their rights to free speech.

Shell hut was acquired by TriSpan’s dedicated dining platform, Rising Stars, designed to continue expanding into more markets in Texas and beyond. Shell Shack founder Dallas Hale, who will continue to serve as CEO, has announced plans to open five new locations each year. TriSpan partner Anthony Freijy said they are also in the “early stages” of developing a highly differentiated and experiential “entertainment-and-eat” concept.

The 2022 Bars & Restaurants Fair, formerly known as Nightclub & Bar & Show, returns to the Las Vegas Convention Center from March 21 to 23, 2022. Early bird tickets start at $ 99 and are available until January 31, 2022. Bar & Restaurant Expo is a gathering of bars and restaurant owners and operators. The event provides access to vendors launching new products, networking opportunities, workshops, Las Vegas location tours and nightlife events.

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Burglary delays opening of Ramen Hiroshi restaurant in San Francisco’s financial district Tue, 30 Nov 2021 18:47:29 +0000

The opening of a new ramen shop in the Financial District is on hold after vandals burst into space over the weekend and staged a multi-hour underground party, Ramen owner Hiroshi told KTVU. Co-owner Daniel Bomya claims the thieves took away the restaurant’s surveillance cameras but left plenty of evidence, including “garbage bags full of empty bottles, cans, cigarette butts and a lingering smell of marijuana,” KTVU reports. Co-owner Aung Khaing told KTVU that revelers also left vomit on the second floor of the restaurant, which the owners had to clean up. And although there probably was no Succession– compliment-style tunnel or uber-exclusive treehouse at the illicit event, the hosts appear to have been relatively organized; there were large banners advising participants where to find the toilet and ‘they can even charge[d] people to enter, ”Bomya speculated.

As the vandals stole furniture and equipment and left the restaurant‘s wine storage units empty, the owners say they will have a hand at the grand opening, which was due to take place on the 10th. December. Ramen Hiroshi currently has three Bay Area locations, including the original in Walnut Creek, which made waves with its debut as the city’s first and only ramen shop at the time. The restaurant at 322 Kearny Street will mark the restaurant’s first location to open in San Francisco, bringing its creamy Hakata-style tonkotsu to the city. [KTVU]

Cal-Italian pioneer Delfina closes its doors for a major overhaul

According to a post on the restaurant’s Instagram, Delfina and the Delfina Pizzeria on 18th Street are only offering take-out and deliveries for the next few months, while the space is undergoing a major renovation. The plan is to combine the original Delfina restaurant and the more casual neighboring Delfina pizzeria into one space, where you can get Delfina’s legendary roast chicken and spaghetti, and the popular Neapolitan-style pizza from Pizzeria D, as well as cocktails. , since it is also planned to build a bar. Award-winning design group Roy (Tailor’s Son, Wildseed, the Riddler) takes care of the interiors, so expect a refresh. Delfina recently celebrated its 23rd birthday, and regulars will be delighted to see it finally reopen after a long pandemic shutdown, and perhaps eager to see if it returns to its full glory. Locanda, the group’s Roman pasta restaurant closed when the pandemic began, and pizzerias (there are four locations, including the Mission outlet) have received increased attention in recent years. .

Get Ready: SF Restaurants Say They May Raise Their Prices Soon

The SF Chronicle spoke to a handful of Bay Area restaurateurs who all say the rising cost of ingredients and on-the-go containers could mean they have no choice but to increase menu prices in local restaurants. weeks and months to come. [SF Chronicle]

La Cocina is organizing a holiday market on December 11

The La Cocina Holiday Market takes place this year, so mark your calendars for Saturday, December 11 from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. art and gifts – plus food and drink from the chefs at La Cocina. The event is free, but you will need food and drink tickets, and you can purchase them in advance from the La Cocina website.

Friday, the Izakaya party takes over the Family Cafe

Head to North Beach this Friday from 6 to 9 p.m. for “pieces of chicken, delicious izakaya otsumami, fountains of cold beer, sake and wine, and of course lots of good vibes” at Family Cafe, via Instagram .

468 25th Street, Oakland, California

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I donate on Tuesday 2021 in Chattanooga, TN Tue, 30 Nov 2021 07:00:05 +0000

United Way participates in Giving Tuesday for the third year in a row | Photo via NOOGAtoday

Today it’s Give Tuesday, a worldwide celebration of generosity + the opportunity to give back to the community.

We collapse some local organizations participate in, and offer charitable giving incentives for, Tuesday I’m giving this year, so it is even easier for you to do good.

Chambliss Center for Children | The Chambliss Center for Children is organizing a social media campaign, and hopes to gain 20 new donors + raise $ 21,000 this Tuesday I donate.

Chattanooga State | In honor of Tuesday I give, all donations to the Chattanooga State Foundation Workforce training grant until December 1 will be matched dollar for dollar, up to $ 3,000, by an anonymous donor.

CO.LAB | CO.LAB takes donations from support local businesses currently fundraising with Kivaa program that offers zero-interest loans to businesses without access to traditional capital.

Girls Inc. | An anonymous donor match all gifts at Girls Inc. up to $ 5,000 for Giving Tuesday. You can also have a cocktail or a dinner To Flying squirrel from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. today, and the restaurant will donate a percentage of all proceeds to Girls Inc.

Latin professionals from Chattanooga | Support by making a donation and then downloading the prospectus + share a post on social networks. Use the hashtags #unselfie, #givingtuesday, and #latinaprofchatt, and the organization will repost it.

Net Resources Foundation | The Net Resource Foundation has established a $ 10,000 fundraising goal for Giving Tuesday to expand its pantry services, especially as the number of people needing food is expected to increase during the holidays.

United Way | This is the third year in a row that Centraide has participated in the Mardi I Give, during which all profits will go to the organization service 211a free + confidential service that serves thousands of people across the Tennessee Valley by uniting them with local resources.

You can also check this Facebook page local nonprofit fundraisers – Facebook meet up to $ 8 million in donations today.

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New restaurant gets off to a strong start in North Westchester Sun, 28 Nov 2021 20:30:00 +0000

A new seafood restaurant that recently opened in North Westchester has received positive reviews from customers for its fresh dishes.

Coral Seafood Restaurant opened in Somers in early October, according to Elsa Isa, the restaurant’s manager.

The restaurant is located at 63 Route 6 in Baldwin Place.

Isa said business got off to a slow start as it took a while for customers to find out the restaurant had opened, but now business has picked up and the restaurant has been particularly busy on weekends.

She said customers can make reservations, although they can also drop by.

Isa said customers have expressed how much they love seafood, which the owner buys fresh every other day.

“They always say they can taste the freshness of seafood,” she said.

Some of the more popular menu items so far include appetizers, such as crab cakes, mussels, oysters, and artichoke and spinach dip.

Popular main dishes include red snapper, sea scallops and shrimp, Isa said.

The restaurant also offers pasta dishes, including linguine with white or red clam sauce, and non-seafood dishes, such as burgers.

Coral Seafood also has a full bar, which offers white and red sangria as well as a variety of other drinks.

Learn more about coral seafood here.

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Garbage cans allow New Orleans oyster lovers to donate seashells for reefs Sun, 28 Nov 2021 20:16:34 +0000 NEW ORLEANS (AP) – An environmental group that makes oyster reefs from shellfish collected from restaurants in the New Orleans area now has a new partner so everyone can contribute.

“After enjoying oysters at home with your family and friends, you can help protect our coast” by bringing seashells to a public repository, said Kellyn LaCour-Conant, director of restoration programs at the Coalition to Restore Coastal Louisiana.

The organization has created four reefs with seashells collected from restaurants since the launch of the “Restaurants to Reefs” program in 2014.

The Green Project, which operates a salvage store and a paint recycling project, now has purple oyster collection bins outside, the coalition said in a press release on Friday. People can drop off their empty oyster shells from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday.

Another environmental recycler had done this. But Glass Half Full had to put this on hold after Hurricane Ida hit in late August, according to the press release.

Reefs provide homes and nurseries for hundreds of species of marine animals and plants. Each oyster can filter up to 25 gallons of water per day. And the reefs slow down the waves that endlessly eat away at the Louisiana coast.

The coalition’s recycling program used more than 5 tons (4.5 metric tons) of seashells to build 1.3 miles (2.1 kilometers) of living shoreline.

Twenty-three restaurants paid for pickups ahead of the COVID-19 pandemic, coalition spokesman James Kelly said in an email.

“All shell collecting in the city ceased when restaurants closed at the start of the lockdown here. So we went to zero restaurants overnight, and then slowly rebuilt the program, ”he said in an email. He said 13 are participating now.

The chefs brigade, which ran a meal assistance program during the first wave of the pandemic, helped recruit restaurants, he said.

The four reefs created so far are in Biloxi Marsh, Barataria Bay, Pointe-au-Chien and Adam’s Bay. The organization plans to expand the Pointe-au-Chien reef in the summer of 2022.

The Nature Conservancy is working on an oyster shell recycling program in Mississippi.

At least 13 other states have had such programs. A pre-pandemic investigation has found them in Texas, Alabama, Florida, nine east coast states and California, said Tom Mohrman, director of marine programs at The Nature Conservancy earlier this month.

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Schnitzel Forever, London: “Total crowd pleaser, no crowds” – restaurant review | Food Sun, 28 Nov 2021 06:00:00 +0000

Schnitzel Forever, 119 Stoke Newington Church Street, London N16 0UD (020 7419 0022). Starters £ 7 – £ 10, main courses £ 9.50 – £ 25, desserts £ 4.50 – £ 6.50, wines from £ 24

Schnitzel forever, a small restaurant in Stoke Newington, London, is the cornerstone of a growing chain of stores with many outposts across the country. He doesn’t quite know it yet. It’s not overwhelming with slight praise. We are, of course, bound to worship the independent rather than the mass produced and cookie-cutter, and we do. Even the very word “chain” makes people tremble. I recently realized that I was substituting the word “group” to describe a restaurant chain with multiple outposts that I admire, so as not to smear it with the rancid stench of chain corporatism.

But, in truth, the eight-strong Dishoom, which I really like, is just a channel by another name. And the ever-delicious Hawksmoor steakmongers, now with 12 outlets, isn’t that a chain too? Over the years, brands like Piccolino (18 branches), Côte (over 80) and Nando’s (3,207,565) have served me well. Many channels are, of course, where the hope and the ingredients go to die. Oh Frankie & Benny’s, how do I hate you? Let me count the ways. And while I do, please wipe down your overly long dropdowns. But some can be a reassuring presence on a devastated and destroyed main street.

“Served with a seriously vinegared potato salad, accompanied by a pitcher of rich and sticky demi-glace”: wiener schnitzel. Photograph: Sophia Evans / The Observer

The point is, I could well imagine these coupons being joined by a deployed version of Schnitzel Forever, the name of which tells you most of what you need to know. Right now it’s a small stand-alone restaurant serving flattened things, which have been breaded and fried. Crispy, browned and fried foods are, as we all know, the right foods. Schnitzel Forever is total crowd pleaser, only without the crowds.

I should declare moderate interest here or maybe, more accurately, ridiculous and exaggerated obsession. In 2007, I published an infinitely brilliant novel titled The headquarters of the Oyster House, about a hostage-taking in a restaurant kitchen on the night of the 1983 general election. Schnitzel provides a key plot point. In this case, it is a wiener holstein, a wiener schnitzel with the addition of a fried egg, anchovies and veal jus. The yolk and the sauce lubricate the crispy fried veal; anchovies add extra poke. I would hesitate to call it the pinnacle of Mitteleuropean culinary success, but not for very long.

“Get the same breaded and fried treat”: pieces of squid.
“Get the same breaded and fried treat”: pieces of squid. Photograph: Sophia Evans / The Observer

In my novel, The Hostage Taker, knowing that he has to make demands of the police negotiators, panics and reads a list of ingredients on a piece of paper stuck to the wall. A policeman, who is also a passionate cook, notices that he has forgotten the anchovies, adds them to the order and so a dialogue begins. I’m not sure why this book hasn’t been made into a big movie yet, possibly starring Christopher Walken as the cutlet. The film rights remain available.

Pretty much the only iteration of the dish missing from the menu at Schnitzel Forever is, in this case, the Wiener Holstein. I’ll let it go because it’s my obsession, not theirs (Fischer in London, Marylebone makes a really good one.) What matters is that they managed the basics of taking various ingredients – chicken, pork, veal, etc. – by beating them flat, by breading them and then frying them. They’re tan and crisp and £ 10-13 for the basic, which completely covers the plate, at a great price. There is also a halloumi cutlet, a portobello mushroom cutlet and something involving sea bass. All plans are covered.

“Hilarious engagement”: tiger prawns.
“Hilarious engagement”: tiger prawns. Photograph: Sophia Evans / The Observer

In the “specials” section, priced only for teenagers, the plate cover becomes a raft for additional ingredients. The classic Viennese schnitzel, made as it should with veal, is served with a seriously vinegared potato salad, accompanied by a pitcher of rich and sticky demi-glace. The cordon bleu contains emmental cheese, ham and mashed potatoes. With the “el granjero” it’s mashed avocado, jalapeño pickles, lime and more demi-glace. Or you can decorate your own by applying some punchy sauces and relish. I especially liked the Bloody Mary ketchup and the apple and cider brandy chutney. The availability of a curry sauce allows them to include a menu item called a katsu schnitzel, which will lead some of my friends to thoughts of violence. In this case, I’m just the reporter. Quite naturally, breaded fried things like to be stuffed into a brioche bun and called a burger. For £ 12.50 you can have a Tower schnitzel burger with a triple layer of veal, pork and chicken.

The point here is that a unique and compelling idea was saddled up and pushed as far as possible until sunset. There is a really good coleslaw with white cabbage for £ 5, although I would like to stop the kitchen from adding sour cream to the cucumber salad. This makes what should be a shiny, crispy foil for fried products, strangely cloying. Hilariously, the commitment to breading and frying things extends to the entrees, where squid and tiger shrimp get the same treatment. In keeping with their desire to be ubiquitous on Main Street, the underwhelming desserts are usually overly sweet spongy products – a double chocolate brownie, a sticky caramel pudding – most of which are bought elsewhere. Apparently they make their own apple strudel, but it’s not the night we’re there.

“With a crushed avocado”: el granjero. Photograph: Sophia Evans / The Observer

Like birthday cakes and ambitions, a full cutlet should never be small and being so, few of the ones we see ordered tonight are finished. No matter. They started by doing the delivery during the various lockouts and as a result they have pizza style boxes to wrap the leftovers with. It is clear that the delivery business remains strong; Throughout the evening there is a constant stream of horse riders who come to bring the joy of schnitzel to the sofas in North London. How much I have to admit that it is not unique. The sophisticated folks of Middlesbrough have a long tradition of take-out parmo: essentially a chicken or pork cutlet, topped with a cheese bechamel sauce. All greet the mighty parmo.

I love Schnitzel Forever. It’s a good idea, well priced and well executed. This extends to the design of the restaurant. We tend to only notice such things when we have spent a lot of money. Here, a modest space has been cleverly laid out, with sleek black and white tiling, cream banquettes, and the clever use of cloudy plexiglass panels behind which hide tropical fronds of easy-care pure plastic to make the room larger. Like the menu, everything works. If you soon see a queue at the door, assume that these are hospitality industry investors. Or people who really like cutlets.

New bites

I have long been a huge fan of Riley’s Fish Shack, on Tynemouth Beach east of Newcastle, but have always feared for them whenever winter storms come. Now they have Riley’s Fish Shop, a brick and mortar restaurant (and retail operation). The ever-changing board menu includes whole sea bass and turbot, and various fillets alongside lobster and oyster platters from Lindisfarne as well as game dishes. TO

The results of the annual London restaurant scene survey conducted by participatory restaurant guide Harden’s are available. Along with the unsurprisingly news of a slew of closures due to the pandemic, comes glaring accounts of price inflation in the upper part of the capital. In the 2020 guide there was only one place, sushi restaurant Araki, with an average spend of £ 200 per head. Now there are seven. The number of restaurants with an average value of £ 150 per capita has increased from nine to 24. Visit

And another look at the challenges facing the hospitality industry: the end of the holiday regime and the moratorium on liquidation requests that had prevented creditors from taking action to recover the money they were owed, combined with the need to repay government loans, all now have a serious impact. Restaurant bankruptcies in the UK rose 31% in the last quarter, from 226 to 296.

Email Jay at or follow him on Twitter @ jayrayner1

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