Ki Kim has teamed up with a new restaurant group called In Hospitality, which is also behind Hanchic from Koreatown, to open a new modern Korean establishment called Kinn inside the former Sushi One space, which is opening in expected in two weeks. Kim joins Dustin Dong Kyuk Lee, president of In Hospitality and co-founder of Hanchic, as well as chef Justin Min, Minsoo Son and Jeff Jun, who together help lead the charge behind LA’s new interest in modern Korean cuisine. .
Previously, Kwang Uh in Baroo was one of the leading practitioners of modern Korean cuisine, eventually opening Shiku inside the Grand Central Market with his partner Mina Park, while Jihee Kim’s Perilla LA was another example of innovative dishes. using seasonal ingredients and a base of Korean cooking techniques. Last year, Ki Kim helped operate Naemo LA, a really nice dosirak takeout outlet, and then appeared at the Yellow House cafe to serve his version of gimbap.
Ki Kim started as a sushi chef at Matsuhisa in Aspen before moving to various fine dining restaurants like Benu in San Francisco, run by Korean-American chef Corey Lee, and Kojyu in Tokyo. Kim then spent time at Jungsik, a two Michelin star Korean restaurant in New York; Atomix, another two Michelin star restaurant in Junghyun and Elia Park; and finally Blanca, the tasting menu counter next to Roberta’s.
Here in Kinn, expect the kind of intricate a la carte menu with luxe ingredients you’ll find at New York City dining establishments, like Hen of the Woods with Sea Urchin and Asian Pair; oysters with octopus eggs, cucumber and smoked trout; or a Colorado lamb chop with spinach and five spice jus. There are also playful items on the menu, like a Korean-style corndog with iberico jamon, blue crab and ketchup, or a chicken ttokgalbi (a flattened, grilled meat patty) with marinated celery and yolk. egg. Finally, a bibimbap with kimchi and winter truffle brings an intoxicating and unexpected touch to the classic dish of rice and vegetables.
Elsewhere in Los Angeles, Chef Sunny Jang’s Tokki, who also cooked at Atomix and previously at Quince in San Francisco, opened at the busy Chapman Plaza, serving a sort of casual modern Korean tapas-style menu. With Hanchic, Perilla, Kinn and Tokki, with the foundations laid by Baroo a few years ago and even Roy Choi’s Pot, there seems to be a modern Korean food movement coming to Los Angeles. Places like Kogi and Chego have also helped weave Korean ingredients into familiar formats of tacos and rice bowls, respectively. Spoon by H by Yoonjin Hwang spoke a language of modern Korean but at a more accessible level, every day. You could argue that David Chang and Jude Parra-Sickels (who was previously at Pot) helped install a modern Korean sensibility in Majordomo with dishes like trendy cooked Benton-stuffed sausages and smoked whole ribs. Finally, Chef Wonsuk “John” Kang received accolades from LA Times critic Bill Addison for his Korean pub-like cuisine in HanEuem.
LA’s Koreatown has traditionally been considered the venue for best-performed traditional American cuisine, although many other cities have attempted to present Korean flavors to a wider audience, such as Parachute in Chicago, Heirloom Market Barbecue in Atlanta, Han Oak in Portland and of course the multitude of modern Korean establishments in New York.
LA, on the other hand, has resisted the kind of more upscale Korean food that felt overpriced or fussy. With Ki Kim, Jihee Kim, Kwang Uh à Shiku and other young chefs trained in France and the United States, that position seems to be changing, at least with the young Asian American diners who are eager to see their food presented. in a more refined style. setting, with a more chic vibe and assorted cocktails / wines.
Kim and the In Hospitality team hope to open by November 17th with limited places and hours, then fully debut on November 19th before declaring a “grand” opening on December 1st. Normal hours will be Tuesday to Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Kinn. 3905 West 6th Street, Los Angeles, California.