The glories of the pan-seared jeon await you in Koreatown

Jeon (sometimes also transliterated to jun or chun) are often described in English as “tasty Korean pancakes,” although that doesn’t quite reflect the breadth of possibilities these breaded and pan-fried snacks have to offer.

Yes, it can be round, palm-sized cakes topped with soft flake pollock, maybe, or almost as big as a hubcap, like in thick, crisp spheres called pajeon that are visibly overflowing. seafood and green onions. They can also be elaborate piles of crab sticks, trimmed scallions and a dense mulch of sliced ​​mushrooms held together by skewers before frying, or chili peppers cut in half with a lightly spicy mixture of finely ground meat and tofu. .

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Modeum jeon is a combined tray comprising a range of meat, vegetable and seafood jeons; it is often served during celebrations or important anniversaries. It’s not as common to see it on restaurant menus, which is one of the reasons I enjoyed them so much at HanEuem in Koreatown, the subject of this week’s review. Wonsuk “John” Kang, whose restaurants also include Chef Kang Sul Box and Chef Kang Korean Taco, offers a wide menu of traditional dishes in HanEuem: soothing (and sometimes spicy) fondues and stews, soups, pork belly and oysters. stir-fries and foods that pair well with beer or soju, including many varieties of pancakes.

Koreatown is a culinary biome as deep as ever. If a meal at HanEuem makes you want more, Jenn Harris and I rounded up a few take-out favorites in the area last year, and in 2018 Jenn, Amy Scattergood, and the late Jonathan Gold compiled a detailed guide to diving into. its riches.

– The Michelin Guide and its stars awarded by teams of mystery inspectors are back in Los Angeles (and all of California) this week. Stephanie Breijo has all the details.

– For our next episode of Week of Meals, directed by Ben Mims, recipe creator and writer Thea Baumann brings us penne pasta with caramelized cauliflower, garlic and chili; roast chicken with fennel-arugula salad; chickpea and escarole soup; and lamb and zucchini burgers.

– The Los Angeles Times Food Bowl, presented by the City National Bank, is hosting a dinner to celebrate the plurality of eating in Los Angeles. Valerie Gordon, Ray Garcia (Broken Spanish), Mina Park and Kwang Uh (Shiku) and the Chengdu Impression team will prepare a special menu for the October 16 event at Paramount Pictures Studios. Jenn harris fills us.

– On the podcast “The Times”, Gustavo Arellano discusses LA’s ever-changing charcuterie culture.

Hayato, managed by Brandon Go, received a second Michelin star this week.

(Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Times)

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