PARIS – After being closed for seven months due to the coronavirus pandemic, the Parisian restaurant scene is back in full force.
Great chefs took advantage of the confinement period to work on new street food concepts intended to appeal to local customers, in the absence of many of the usual foreign visitors to the French capital.
Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno transformed his bistro and wine bar Allénothèque into a summer burger pop-up called Burger Père & Fils, while Alan Geaam launched Sâj, a take-out counter serving stuffed Lebanese flatbreads.
Sign of the reshuffle of the traditional ranks of French gastronomy, chef Jean Imbert, 39, was appointed chef de cuisine of the Plaza Athénée hotel last week, succeeding industry legend Alain Ducasse, who held this position. for 20 years.
Winner of the French edition of “Top Chef” in 2012, Imbert runs two companies with musician Pharrell Williams: Swan in Miami and To Share in Saint-Tropez in the south of France. Later this year, he will open a restaurant in the renovated Dior headquarters on avenue Montaigne in Paris.
Meanwhile, large hotel groups are busy establishing new sites across the city. Among the upcoming projects of the Moma group, we can mention a new branch of Café Lapérouse and the Mimosa restaurant of chef Jean-François Piège, inspired by the Côte d’Azur, both to open inside the Hôtel de la Marine. recently renovated on the Place de la Concorde.
For its part, Paris Society launched its new Italian trattoria Bambini at the Palais de Tokyo, in addition to a bar and a restaurant on the roof of the new concept store Sacré Coeur, offering Italian-Mexican tapas, courtesy of the resident chefs. Lorenzo Rennella and Pepe Iglesias. Here is a selection of new addresses to discover in Paris:
For the restaurant of his new contemporary art museum at the Bourse de Commerce in Paris, billionaire François Pinault called on the award-winning father-son duo Michel and Sébastien Bras, whose concept for the Halle aux Grains is inspired by the origins of the building as a grain exchange. .
Originally from Laguiole in the sparsely populated Aubrac region in the south of France, they specialize in contemporary cuisine made with local, seasonal produce.
“With each project that we have undertaken, whether on the Millau viaduct or at the Soulages Museum in Rodez, we always want to create a map linked to the history of the place, and there of course, there was this very strong link. with cereals, it has therefore become the common thread, ”Sébastien Bras told WWD.
Cooks worked with all varieties of grains and seeds, including amaranth, kamut, broad bean, alfalfa, millet, barley and flax. “We have tasted, sprouted, grilled, puffed, infused, fermented and cooked in a thousand ways to compose this new writing,” says Michel Bras.
The menu also includes a new interpretation of its signature “coulant au chocolat”, a hot cookie with a center of liquid chocolate, accompanied here by grilled oatmeal ice cream.
For the interior, industrial designers Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec used wrought iron for the tables, seats and lamps, and punctuated the space with thick green and brown glassware produced near Venice, Italy. The openwork curtains are made of guipure fabric, borrowed from the world of haute couture.
“It’s extremely comfortable, but the language is fairly new,” explains Ronan Bouroullec. “It’s quite contemporary, raw and direct, but at the same time, there is a real sweetness. Pinault has his own private dining room on site, which could quickly become the ultimate electric breakfast table in town.
2 rue de Viarmes
Phone: +331 82 71 71 60
After opening two restaurants on the roof of Galeries Lafayette – Creatures vegetarian restaurant and Tortuga fish spot – Julien Sebbag is putting meat on the menu with Forest, his latest concept opened in partnership with Moma Group on the esplanade of the Museum of Modern Art in Paris, with a view of the Eiffel Tower.
“Forest is a place of experimentation which strives to respect a fundamental ethic: eco-responsibility. We see it as a kind of post-apocalyptic forest, in the near future, where nature is trying to take its rightful place. In all humility, we try to support it with dishes that prioritize recycling, locally sourced foods and a true celebration of craftsmanship, ”Sebbag said.
Among the dishes that come out of the open kitchen are oyster mushrooms flambéed with Mezcal Unión; asparagus and peas salad, and a colorful zucchini carpaccio with kalamata olives. The cocktails, developed in partnership with the Belvedere vodka brand, highlight fermented ingredients.
Sebbag has chosen Dorion Fiszel as artistic director, in charge of the musical entertainment of the restaurant, which will move inside in the fall.
Museum of Modern Art of the City of Paris
11 avenue du President Wilson
Phone: +331 84 25 12 22
HOUSE OF THE TRUFFLE
As she prepares to celebrate her 90th birthday next year, truffle specialist La Maison de la Truffe has called on fashion designer Alexis Mabille to refresh its historic boutique and restaurant in Place de la Madeleine. . Mabille, whose interior design agency Beau Bow is also behind the decor of the Froufrou and the famous cabaret Le Boeuf sur le Toit, has opted for a warm design inspired by nature.
“Wood, stone and plants evoke an enveloping and comforting woody undergrowth. The waxed oak marquetry creates optical effects. The paneling opens windows onto lush tapestries, slats of glass and exposed stones, as if this Parisian living room were located in the heart of a lush forest ”, specifies the designer.
Founded in 1932 by truffle makers from the city of Carpentras, the Maison de la Truffe acquired a tasting area in 1978. Now owned by the Caviar Kaspia Group, it also sells fresh and preserved truffles, as well as flavored condiments, olive oils, cheeses, sauces and foie gras.
House of the Truffle
19 place de la Madeleine
Phone: +331 42 65 53 22
Dior opens a restaurant in Paris with chef Jean Imbert
How Alexis Mabille helped a Parisian institution to regain its luster
Netflix’s “Chef in a Truck” brings Ritz pastry to the streets of Paris